Bicycle Archeology: Uncovering the Mystery of a 1984(ish) Holdsworth Special

35 comments by Ammon Sink
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Today, we're pushing the tools to the corner of the cluttered bench and making room for some investigative research. Hanging on the stand is what appears to be an untouched survivor—a Holdsworth road bike that’s as intriguing as it is functional. While it seems to be in good working order overall, it has a few quirks worth diving into. From unusual dropout spacing to brake reach and a unique groupset, let’s don our Bicycle Archaeology hats and dig into this fascinating 1984(ish) Holdsworth Special.

1980s holdsworth special frameset bike road bike vintage road bike english racer

How It Came to Be Here

This bike found its way to me through my friend, @shanesellers1, who acquired it in a bike parts trade. Being too big for Shane, he generously thought of me, knowing I’d appreciate its character. Funny how some of the best projects land unexpectedly in your lap. This is why I always encourage sharing your hobbies and passions—you never know when a great find will come your way!

The Journey of Discovery

Alright, prepare yourself. This is going to be a mental exercise in research and decoding. Researching a vintage bike is usually straightforward: match the frame’s features with catalog images, estimate the timeframe, and verify details. But this bike? It’s a puzzle. For reference, the site nkilgariff.com has been an invaluable resource for obscure information, catalogs, and photos of Holdsworth, Claude Butler, and FH Grubb bikes.

Holdsworth’s story began in London in the 1930s, originally selling pedals and camping kits before moving into bicycles. Their pedigree is storied—worth a deep dive if you’re interested in British cycling history.

The model we have, the Special, was primarily sold as a frameset from 1976 to 1985. It’s described in catalogs as (make sure you read this with an English accent):
"Designed for fast touring or responsive leisure riding... with upright 73-degree parallel geometry, hand-built from Reynolds 531 butted manganese-molybdenum tubing, and clearance for 700c wheels or sprints." 

Narrowing Down the Year

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The seattube’s tubing sticker reads Reynolds 531c, a clue pointing to either 1984 or 1985, as earlier Specials used standard 531 tubing. The “c” denotes Competition—or as Igor calls it, “the good stuff.”

1980s holdsworth special frameset bike lugged road bike vintage road bike english racer

The next step was paint analysis. The 1984 catalog lists options in Steel Blue, Orange Pearl, or custom (“to choice”), while the 1985 catalog narrows it to Pale Mauve Pearl. Since our bike’s burgundy paint isn’t listed, it’s likely a custom color from 1984. After hours poring over catalogs and photos, I’m confident in this conclusion. You see? We're starting to dust the surface of our find. 

The Unique Build

1980s holdsworth special frameset bike lugged road bike vintage road bike english racer shimano 105 mavic ma40

The groupset is a Shimano 105 1050 indexed 6 speed group. This group came out around 1987 and I feel that this is the group that put 105 on the map as the affordable step into the high end world - three years newer than the frame. It features lots of trickle down technology from Dura Ace and has a very modern look for the time. The crank uses Biopace chainrings to get that dead spot out of your pedaling - sound familiar to today's oval rings? Between the click shifting and newly introduced SLR brake lever ergonomics, this groupset was the pinnacle for new technology and value.

1980s holdsworth special frameset bike lugged road bike vintage road bike english racer shimano 105 mavic ma40

This 1050 group is very complete (minus the pedals). It even has the 105 headset which is odd to me because normally a headset would have come with the frame from what Holdsworth descriptions say. So, we have an older frame (84) with a newer group (87) and a dead wheel size that would not have been as popular at this level bike for the time. Hmmm......we must dig deeper.

Wheel Talk

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The thing that got Igor excited about this project was the 128mm spaced rear dropouts. That isn't a typo. 128mm was a thing for like a month in the 80s during the transition from 126mm freewheel hubs to the more modern cassette hub. Ostensibly, you could choose one or the other depending on your preference! Very forward thinking. Does that sound like the 132.5mm spacing of the mid '00s? You could choose either 130mm or 135mm with just a push or pull. Even though there is a 30 year difference, the thinking of options and flexibility for the time is a very interesting parallel. *Adjusts glasses* Very interesting.....

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Laced with the 105 hubs and low profile Mavic ma40 rims, these wheels are really nice looking and lightweight. The hub is set very close to the edge of the drop outs, I would would like to see it more in the middle. I think this is is also the reason for the 27" rims. They need a taller wheel to meet the short-reach brakes.

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Here's the thing, the frame is designed for a nutted brake and these 105s are recessed. I have seen these problems happen a lot in the bike world - the evolution of parts go so quickly that it can even be hard to overcome a couple years difference when it comes to compatibility.

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I know a lot of mechanics that have had this issue (as well as myself) with the flat mount disc brake and have had to go to adapters for different frames. The brakes on this bike have been very nicely and neatly modified to take a nut and mount on the frame, and they also have been shimmed and have some spacers so they align well with the rim. Pretty clever. Good job mechanic from 40 years ago - I hope you're reading this.

Speculative History

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So how did this build come together? Here’s my theory:

  1. The frame was likely purchased on sale after the model run or as a leftover stock hanging in a jolly-old English bike shoppe.
  2. The 105 groupset was added as the latest and greatest available in 1987.
  3. The wheels? Perhaps a deliberate choice for either lighter weight and short-reach brakes as opposed to more clearance with longer-reach alternatives—a precursor to modern 650b conversions.

What’s Next?

So what should we do with this Holdsworth? Should it get a retro-mod overhaul with brifters and 700c wheels? Or should we simply clean it up and enjoy it as-is? This project has been a fascinating dive into Bicycle Archaeology, even if we’re off on some details.

We’d love to hear your thoughts—what would you do? Let us know in the comments! And if you’ve spotted something we missed or have additional info, please reach out.


35 comments


  • Brian

    Suggested updates: Replace Mavic wheels with VO wheels, since the Mavics will probably not stay true for too terribly long; plus, chrome will look good. :) Replace saddle and handlebar tape. Done.


  • Bill

    I have a 1980 Kabuki 7 speed 27 in Wheels. Is it worth anything and would somebody be interested great shape


  • Bill A

    Please compare this bike to 1980 27-in Kabuki


  • Corbin

    correction to my previous comment: 126 mm spacing was for either standard six speed or narrow 7 speed gearing. 130 mm came about with introduction of (narrow) 8 speed gearing. by that time nobody called 8 speed gearing narrow. it was just 8 speed. some of us still like to run 7 cogs on 130mm rear spacing either by using longer axles on freewheel hubs, or by using spacers behind 7 cog cassettes on more modern freehubs. some cyclists joke that 10 is a sin, 9 is fine, 8 is great, but 7 is heaven. run what you like! that Holdsworth looks as though it has barely been ridden, aside from a couple of little chips in paint. there is virtually no visible wear on the MA40 rim braking surface. original pads on brakes. those schwinn record tire are almost definitely early 90s vintage with almost no signs of wear. the sampson bar tape is also early 90s vintage by my recollection, but it looks almost untouched. overall that is a remarkably pristine survivor of a bike, but it could be built up in any number of ways and still be beautiful. i can easily imagine it being built with more retro components, or retro looking components sold by VO. every piece of that 105 groupset worked extremely well, but esthetics are subjective. picture that frameset with a VO crankset on it, and either gran compe centerpulls or VO sidepull brakes. there are lots of ways to mount recessed nut brakes to an older frame made for standard nut brakes. there are plenty of vintage nutted brakes out there, but there are newly manufactured nutted brakes also out there. VO headset is much better than the 105 headset styling and materials in my opinion. VO hubs would fit right in there physically and visually.


  • Corbin

    105 SLR brakeset in 1987 was available in both ‘short reach’ 49 mm max and ‘standard reach’ 57mm versions. Almost certain they were also made in either standard nut version or recessed nut options. Brake bolt length of front recessed nut version is identical to rear standard nut version, so switching out front to rear and putting standard nut on it was common. If one did not have a longer front standard nut brake bolt, it was very easy to find compatible older replacement bolts in that length to switch out. Either that 105 set came from factory as standard nut version, or it was a simple one bolt swap to get there. 128 mm rear spacing was a fairly common compromise spacing from many framebuilders at the very end of 1980’s transition time from 126 mm ‘standard spacing six speed’ drivetrains to 130 mm ‘seven speed’ drivetrains; this frameset was not intentionally made at 128 mm spacing for that specific purpose, as it seems to be slightly older and before the introduction of 7 speed components. If the frame has been coldset to a different spacing than originally built, it would be very hard to detect (even using straightedge) because the stays would not bend enough to be noticeably curved down the affected length. Most likely it simply came from the frameshop at 128 mm, being intended for use with 126 mm hubs. That slight discrepancy is more than acceptable and makes getting the rear wheel in and out of the dropouts a tiny bit easier. 1mm of clearance space on each side of the axle nuts would not be noticed at all unless specifically looking for it or putting a caliper into it.


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